Sunday, May 29, 2011

First few days



So my first few days in Guatemala have been a whirlwind of events and I'll try and keep them simple here. Also, my internet here isn't tan fuerte como in los estados unidos, so pictures will be small and few.

1. We decided not to go with the B&B in Guatemala city because Jake knew a woman in Antigua and she offered to house us. This was of course the better option. She picked us up at the airport and drove us to antigua (well her driver drove us) then she took us to all her social hubs which were full of traveling europeans, americans, and ex-pats galor - meaning I didn't hear any spanish. The bar we dined at was owned by a man named John who also owns a Mezcal (similar to tequila) company and the bar was fully stocked with this "Mezcal Ilegal", which was delicioso. So good we could sip it.

2. Before leaving Antigua to go to Quetzaltenango, also called Xela (shay-la), Jake took me on a little tour of Antigua. We went to the infamous arch and some local ruins

Mandatory Antigua photo

3. So then we go to Xela and move in to our host families. I live with this awesome family in one of the nicer areas of Xela (zona uno). I have my own room...its a bit small, but i have a bed and nightstand and an armoir, so I have plenty. In the home are an ailing abuela (grandma) and her daughter, my host mom, who mandates I call her 'Betty' and is a sweetheart. Her 2 daughters (Gabby 15 and Andrea 21) live here as well with another student from North Dakota (Devoni) and an American teaching at an American school here (Megan).

4. After 2 days of 5 hour spanish classes Jake and I decided to journey to Lake Aticlan and do some adventuring. We paid 100 quetzales once we got there to hike the volcano (Vulcan San Pedro) early in the morning to have an awesome view before the fog set in. Unfortunately, Jake was attacked by "los bichos de guatemala" and was very uncomfortable for about 48 hours. Needless to say, the hike was off. We regarded the 100 quetzales (10.33 dollars) as a sunk cost and moved on to a boat / walking tour of the towns surrounding the lake. One highlight was our 'opportunity' to make offerings to Maximo (Ma-shi-mo) the semi demonic mayan god of drinking and smoking. He's always housed in 1 town, but his home changes every year to 1 of 12 worshipers. The adventure was then cut short so Jake could be taken care of by his wonderful host mom "Lilly" who is pretty wonderful (she gave me soup today).


Lake Aticlan from Santiago











"Maximo" enjoying being worshiped with his clearly wasted 'priests'.


Today, Jake was a bit more energetic so we ventured into la selva (jungle) to the 'Fuentes Georginas" - natural hot springs in the highlands. How could they not be awesome? Tons of Guatemalans and foreigners all floating around in sulfer baths... probly less healthy than drinking the water, but oh well. Pictures wouldn't do this place justice. Not only do the baths produce a lot of steam, but they are high enough to be perpetually engulfed in fog, so if you really want to see a cloud filled with half-dressed guatemalans in green pools, I can email you the riveting images. The best part of the trip was when we boarded a chicken bus at the pools. We walked on and asked if they were going to the town below the pools and they said "No, directo a Xela". We excitedly grabbed seats, thankful to have a simplified trip, but for some reason the bus thought we were objects of great amusement. It wasn't until about 5 minutes in that I realized there was way more conversation on this bus than most other chicken buses. Turning around to the young guys behind us I ask - "Es un bus privado"? Laughing, they responded "Si, somos un familia" - Whoops, just boarded the private family reunion bus!


Things learned so far:
  • Great Guatemalan coffee is exported or bought by restaurants. Instant coffee is most prevalent among the people.
  • Evangelical churches are extremely strict and considered nearly "fanatical" while Catholic churches are considered more traditional yet less restricted. Both are rife with corruption.
  • The mexican drug gangs are trying to control guatemalan production of weed.
  • All you really need to know to speak spanish is the Past, Present, and Future. Otherwise its just for writing.
  • Guatemalans need to drink purified water too. Sink water isn't good for anyone.
  • There are so many interesting people traveling. Germans, Belgians, Canadians, Israelis, 31 year old sociology bachelor's students, people 'Woof-ing' (Working On an Organic Farm). Its really awesome to run into these people way crazier than me and here some sweet stories / get great advice.
I'm just getting warmed up. More adventures to follow.

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